Pawademy

Category: Dog Care

  • How to choose the right bed for your dog

    How to choose the right bed for your dog

    A dog bed is where your dog sleeps, rests and spends a big part of the day. Its comfort directly affects your dog’s daily well-being. That’s why it’s worth choosing carefully, taking into account your dog’s size, age and even their preferred sleeping position.

    Size: allow extra space

    The bed should let your dog lie comfortably in a natural position without feeling cramped. Some dogs stretch out fully, while others curl up and change position throughout the night.

    To estimate the right size:

    • measure your dog from nose to the base of the tail while lying down
    • add extra space so they can shift positions freely
    • keep in mind that raised sides reduce the usable space inside

    If the bed is too small, your dog may avoid it or only use part of it.

    Types of dog beds

    • Mattress or cushion

    A flat, open surface without raised edges.

    Suitable for: dogs that like to stretch out, large breeds, warm indoor spaces.

    • Bolster bed

    Soft raised edges around the perimeter.

    Suitable for: dogs that like to curl up and rest their head on something.

    • Enclosed bed

    A covered design that provides a sense of shelter and privacy.

    Suitable for: cautious, small or noise-sensitive dogs.

    That said, not all dogs enjoy enclosed spaces.

    Filling

    A good filling should hold its shape and distribute weight evenly instead of clumping.

    Common options:

    • high-density foam
    • hollow fiber and other synthetic fills
    • memory foam

    For large, senior dogs or dogs with joint discomfort, choose a firm base with good support.

    Bed care

    A dog bed is used every day, so easy maintenance matters.

    What to look for:

    • a removable cover
    • machine-washable materials
    • durable, wear-resistant fabric
    • clean stitching without loose threads
    • a non-slip base for smooth floors

    If your dog sheds heavily, light fabrics may need more frequent cleaning. If your dog tends to dig, choose more durable materials.

    Age matters

    1. Puppy

    Choose something easy to wash. Many puppies chew on fabric, so an affordable option is often best at first.

    2. Active adult dog

    Durable, easy-care beds are the best choice.

    3. Senior dog

    Look for a low entry, stable shape and a firm, supportive surface.

    If your dog has chronic joint or spine issues, or is recovering from an injury, it’s best to consult a veterinarian before choosing a bed.

    Where to place the bed

    Even a good bed may go unused if it’s placed in the wrong spot. Choose a calm area without drafts. Unlike cats, many dogs prefer to stay close to their people rather than being isolated.

    It may take some trial and error to find the right location.

    Common mistakes

    • choosing a bed that is too small
    • thin filling that quickly loses shape
    • fabric that is difficult to clean
    • high beds that are hard for older dogs to access
    • choosing based only on appearance
    • expecting your dog to love it immediately

    The right bed combines comfort for your dog with practicality for you: the right size, a supportive surface and easy care. The better it matches your dog’s habits and needs, the more likely it is to become their favorite place to rest.

  • How to potty train your puppy to use pee pads

    How to potty train your puppy to use pee pads

    Learning to use pee pads is one of the first everyday skills a puppy picks up. The key is consistency: puppies learn gradually through repetition and clear associations.

    When pee pads make sense

    Pee pads are useful:

    • during the first months of a puppy’s life
    • after vaccinations, when outdoor walks are limited
    • at night or during bad weather
    • for small breeds (like Pomeranians, Yorkies or Chihuahuas)
    • during the adjustment period in a new home

    Even if your dog will eventually go outside, pee pads can be a helpful transitional step.

    What to keep in mind

    A puppy cannot control bladder function the same way an adult dog can. Accidents early on are a normal part of the process, not “bad behavior” or stubbornness.

    Puppies usually need to go:

    • after sleeping
    • after eating or drinking
    • after active play
    • first thing in the morning

    How to set up training

    1. Choose a fixed spot

    Place the pad in a quiet, easy-to-reach area. Avoid moving it unless necessary. Consistency helps your puppy learn faster.

    2. Limit the space

    If your home is large, it can be harder for a puppy to figure things out. At first, it helps to keep them in one room or place pads in several areas.

    3. Take your puppy to the pad at the right times

    After sleep, meals or play, bring your puppy to the pad and wait a few minutes.

    4. Reward immediately

    As soon as your puppy uses the pad, praise them and offer a treat.

    5. Repeat consistently

    The more successful repetitions, the faster the habit forms.

    If your puppy misses the pad

    Do not scold or punish after the fact. Your puppy will not connect the correction to something that already happened and will not understand what went wrong.

    What to do instead:

    • clean up calmly
    • use an odor remover
    • think about what you missed
    • adjust your routine and supervision

    Helpful tips

    • remove rugs for now
    • watch for signals: puppies often circle and sniff the floor before going
    • stay calm and patient

    When to expect results

    Some puppies learn quickly, others take more time. It depends on age, routine, personality and your consistency. Progress usually does not happen overnight — it builds step by step.

    The most effective way to teach your puppy to use pee pads is a clear routine, calm training and regular positive reinforcement. Patience and repetition work far better than punishment.

  • How much water does a dog need?

    How much water does a dog need?

    Every day, dogs lose fluids through breathing, activity and normal body processes, so that water needs to be replaced regularly. Proper hydration helps support your dog’s health and overall well-being.

    How much water does a dog need each day?

    On average, a healthy adult dog needs around 40 to 70 ml of water per kilogram of body weight per day:

    • 5 kg dog: about 200–350 ml
    • 10 kg dog: about 400–700 ml
    • 20 kg dog: about 800–1400 ml

    If your dog eats dry food, they will usually need more water. With a wet-food diet, part of their fluid intake comes from meals.

    What affects thirst?

    The amount a dog drinks can change from day to day. For example, after a walk or during hot weather, the bowl may empty faster than usual — and that can be completely normal.

    Thirst often increases with:

    • hot weather
    • active walks and playtime
    • dry indoor air
    • dry food
    • pregnancy and nursing
    • recovery after exercise

    How to tell if your dog is drinking too little

    Pay attention if your dog:

    • has dry gums
    • rarely goes to the water bowl
    • urinates less than usual
    • seems lethargic or sleepy
    • refuses food
    • struggles in hot weather

    These signs can point to dehydration, so do not delay contacting a veterinarian.

    If your dog drinks too much

    Increased thirst is also worth paying attention to. Sometimes it is linked to hot weather or diet, but if your dog suddenly starts drinking noticeably more than usual without a clear reason, it can also be associated with various health issues. This is especially important if the increased thirst comes with frequent urination, weight loss, weakness, vomiting or a reduced appetite.

    How to support healthy drinking habits

    • fresh water should always be available
    • wash the bowl regularly
    • change the water daily, and more often in hot weather
    • bring water and a portable bowl when traveling
    • place several bowls around the home if you have a large space

    There is no single number that fits every dog. Look at your dog’s weight, lifestyle and the weather. If your dog is active, eating well and feeling good, small variations are usually nothing to worry about. Sudden changes in thirst, however, should not be ignored.

  • A puppy at home: what to buy and how to prepare

    A puppy at home: what to buy and how to prepare

    Getting a puppy is exciting, but it also changes your daily routine completely. The first few weeks are usually about feeding schedules, sleep, potty training and overall adjustment. The better you prepare in advance, the less stressful it will be for both the puppy and your household.

    Your main goal at the start is to create a safe environment, get the essentials ready and understand what to expect in the first days.

    What to do before your puppy arrives

    1. Set up a safe area

    Your puppy needs a space where they can rest and feel secure, while still being easy to supervise. A kitchen, part of a room, a playpen or a gated area all work well.

    Why it helps:

    • reduces the risk of chewing unwanted items
    • makes potty training easier
    • helps establish a routine
    • prevents overwhelm from too much space

    2. Remove potential hazards

    Puppies explore the world with their mouths. Remove anything dangerous from their reach:

    • cables, chargers, extension cords
    • household chemicals
    • medications
    • trash bins
    • small objects
    • shoes
    • children’s toys
    • toxic plants (such as dieffenbachia, lily, aloe vera, ivy and cyclamen)
    • plastic bags, threads, rubber bands

    3. Plan for potty training

    Decide in advance where the puppy will go to the bathroom. This could be pee pads at home or a schedule of frequent outdoor trips if the puppy is old enough.

    Make sure you have:

    • pee pads
    • odor remover
    • wipes and paper towels

    Basic checklist: what to buy in advance

    1. Food and water

    • at least two stable bowls
    • the same food the puppy is currently eating
    • a measuring cup or kitchen scale
    • a container for food storage

    Tip: avoid changing your puppy’s diet right away unless necessary.

    2. Sleep and rest

    • a dog bed or mattress
    • a blanket

    Tip: choose a bed that is easy to wash.

    You can also check our article How to choose the right bed for your dog.

    3. Walks and training

    • a properly sized collar or harness
    • a lightweight leash
    • an ID tag
    • treats for training
    • waste bags for walks

    4. Home and safety

    • a playpen or divider
    • a few safe toys
    • chew toys
    • odor remover
    • a brush suited to your puppy’s coat type

    5. Health

    • contact details for a nearby veterinary clinic
    • a carrier for transport
    • a folder for documents, vaccinations and notes

    The first days at home

    On the first day, your puppy needs calm more than stimulation.

    It’s best to:

    • limit the number of visitors
    • show water, sleeping area and potty spot
    • let them explore at their own pace
    • keep your voice calm
    • avoid forcing interaction or play
    • observe more than you interfere

    The best preparation is not about buying everything, but about setting up your home properly. If the space is safe, the essentials are ready and the routine becomes clear over time, your puppy will adjust much more easily.

  • How to leash train your dog

    How to leash train your dog

    Leash training is the foundation of calm, comfortable walks. Some dogs accept a leash right away, while others need more time and support from their owner. A calm, step-by-step approach helps reduce stress and build the skill more quickly.

    When to start

    It is best to introduce the leash early, once your puppy has settled in at home and is ready to explore new objects and routines. Adult dogs can learn too — they may just need a little more time and patience.

    What to prepare first

    A few basics will make training easier:

    • a lightweight leash of the right length
    • a comfortable harness or collar that fits properly
    • treats for rewards

    If your dog feels uncomfortable or scared, training becomes much harder.

    How to get your dog used to a collar or harness

    Step 1. Let them investigate

    Show your dog the collar or harness and let them sniff it. Do not force it on right away. Reward curiosity with praise or treats.

    Step 2. Put it on indoors

    Put the collar or harness on for one or two minutes in a calm setting.

    During that time, try to:

    • start a game
    • offer treats
    • keep your dog busy with an easy activity

    Take it off before your dog becomes stressed.

    Step 3. Increase the time gradually

    Add a little more wearing time each day: a few minutes at first, then longer sessions.

    Step 4. Check the fit

    The collar or harness should not hang loosely or feel tight. You should be able to fit two fingers between the gear and your dog’s neck or body.

    If your dog scratches or tries to remove it

    This is normal at first. The sensation is new and unfamiliar. Gently redirect your dog’s attention with play, movement or treats.

    When to introduce the leash

    Once your dog can wear the collar or harness calmly indoors without paying attention to it, you can clip on the leash and move to the next stage.

    How to leash train your dog

    Step 1. Introduce the leash

    Just like with the collar, do not rush. Place the leash nearby and let your dog sniff it. Praise any interest with your voice and treats. Repeat over several days.

    Step 2. Clip it for a short time indoors

    When the leash no longer causes concern, clip it on briefly. Let your dog stand, move around or explore freely, but do not pull them along.

    Do not wait until your dog becomes nervous. It is better to build time gradually while distracting with play or treats.

    Step 3. Teach your dog to move with you

    Take a few steps around the house. When your dog walks beside you or comes to you willingly, praise and reward right away. This helps your dog learn that staying close to you pays off.

    Step 4. Respond to leash tension

    If your dog pulls forward, do not follow.

    Instead:

    • stop moving
    • wait for the leash to loosen
    • call your dog back to you
    • continue only when the leash is loose

    This teaches your dog that pulling does not move the walk forward.

    Step 5. Practice outside

    Start in quiet places: a yard, a calm street or an empty park. Then gradually move to more everyday environments.

    If you begin somewhere noisy or busy, it will be much harder for your dog to focus.

    Common problems and fixes

    Your dog freezes in place

    Do not pull. Crouch down, call them, offer a treat or take a step back

    Bites the leash

    Redirect to a toy or movement and reward calm behavior

    Pulls constantly

    Reduce distractions and change direction more often

    The dog is afraid of outside

    Keep walks short and let your dog get used to the environment gradually

    How long to train

    Five to ten minutes every day is better than one long session once a week. Consistency brings faster and more reliable results.

    What not to do

    • do not jerk the leash
    • do not shout
    • do not punish fear
    • do not overload your dog with training
    • do not expect perfect behavior in one day

    If you move gradually and avoid overwhelming your dog, the skill will develop much more easily. In time, the leash will stop being a source of stress and become part of relaxed, enjoyable walks.

  • Toxic foods for dogs: what to avoid

    Toxic foods for dogs: what to avoid

    Not all foods that are safe for humans are safe for dogs. Some can cause mild digestive upset, while others may lead to serious poisoning and require urgent veterinary care.

    Foods dogs should never have (even “just a little”)

    For a small dog, even a small amount can be a significant dose. Sensitivity also varies: something that caused no problems once may trigger a serious reaction another time.

    1. Chocolate and cocoa products 

    Contain theobromine and caffeine, which are highly toxic to dogs.

    2. Grapes and raisins

    Can cause acute kidney failure, even in small amounts.

    3. Onions and garlic (all forms)

    Contain organosulfur compounds that damage red blood cells and can lead to anemia.

    4. Xylitol

    A sweetener found in gum, candy, some baked goods and even certain toothpastes. It can cause a dangerous drop in blood sugar and lead to liver failure.

    5. Alcohol

    Dangerous even in very small amounts and can be present in unexpected foods. There is a risk of severe poisoning and even a fatal outcome.

    6. Coffee, energy drinks and tea 

    Due to caffeine, these can overstimulate the nervous system and cause a rapid heart rate, tremors and other serious symptoms.

    7. Cooked bones

    Especially poultry bones. They can splinter and cause serious injury to the digestive tract.

    8. Fatty, fried or very salty foods

    May lead to vomiting, diarrhea and even pancreatitis.

    9. Raw yeast dough

    Expands in the stomach and can cause dangerous bloating. As it ferments, it also produces alcohol, which adds another layer of risk (see p. 5).

    What to do if your dog eats something dangerous

    Do not wait for symptoms. Some types of poisoning take time to develop, even if your dog seems fine at first.

    What to do right away

    • remove any remaining food
    • note what was eaten, how much and when
    • keep the product packaging if possible
    • contact a veterinary clinic as soon as possible
    • follow professional advice

    Do not try to induce vomiting unless a veterinarian specifically tells you to do so. In some cases, it can make things worse.

    The general rule is simple: if you are not sure, do not feed it. Stick to dog-safe foods and treats made specifically for dogs.

  • Why your dog chews everything — and what to do about it

    Why your dog chews everything — and what to do about it

    Chewing is completely natural for dogs. It’s how they explore the world, relieve tension, keep themselves busy and even cope with teething. In many cases, the issue isn’t “bad behavior” — it’s a lack of safe, interesting things to chew.

    Why dogs chew things

    There isn’t just one reason. Here are the most common ones:

    1. Teething

    During teething, gums can feel sore and itchy. The urge to chew increases.

    What helps:

    • safe chew toys
    • teething toys designed for puppies

    Tip: rotate toys regularly to keep your dog interested.

    2. Boredom and lack of stimulation

    If a dog has nothing to do, they will find their own entertainment — furniture, shoes, remotes or boxes.

    Ask yourself honestly:

    • Is my dog getting enough walks?
    • Do we have regular playtime or training?

    If the answer is no, it’s time to add more variety to your dog’s day.

    3. Stress or anxiety

    Dogs often chew to cope with stress — for example, when left alone, during a move, with loud noises or changes in routine.

    What matters here:

    • identify the source of stress
    • create a stable, predictable routine
    • seek professional help if anxiety is significant

    How to fix the problem

    1. Remove temptation

    This is the fastest way to reduce damage.

    2. Offer a better option

    Your dog needs something they are allowed to chew.

    3. Reward the right choice

    If your dog picks their own toy, praise them, offer a treat or start a short play session.

    4. Increase physical activity

    After a proper walk, training session or active play, the urge to chew on random items usually drops.

    5. Do not punish after the fact

    If you find something damaged later, punishment will not help.

    When you may need extra help

    Consider professional support if your dog:

    • chews constantly and obsessively
    • injures their teeth or gums
    • eats non-food items
    • destroys things in panic when left alone

    In these cases, it’s best to consult a veterinarian or a qualified behavior specialist.

    Chewing is not your dog “getting back at you.” It’s a sign of a need that isn’t being met. Once you understand the reason and offer a better outlet, the behavior usually becomes much less of a problem.

  • How to choose a leash and harness for your dog

    How to choose a leash and harness for your dog

    A comfortable walk starts with the right leash and harness. The gear you choose affects your dog’s comfort, your control and overall safety. Poorly fitted or low-quality equipment can restrict movement, cause discomfort or fail at the worst possible moment.

    Types of leashes

    The right leash depends on your dog’s size and how you usually walk them.

    1. Standard leash

    A simple, reliable option for everyday use. Works well for most dogs. In the city, a length of about 1.2 to 2 meters is usually ideal.

    Best for: daily walks, training, vet visits.

    2. Retractable leash

    Gives your dog more freedom to roam, but offers less control and can create sudden pulling. It’s also less durable due to the internal mechanism.

    Best for: calm dogs in safe, open areas.

    3. Long line

    Typically 3 to 10 meters long. Great for training and outdoor walks where your dog can have more space without being fully off-leash.

    Best for: training, recall practice, and outdoor walks where your dog can have more freedom without being fully off-leash.

    Leash materials

    • Nylon — lightweight, affordable, easy to clean
    • Leather — durable, long-lasting, softens over time
    • Canvas / webbing — strong and reliable, good for larger dogs
    • Rubberized — better grip, especially in wet conditions

    What to check before buying

    • the clip opens easily but stays securely fastened
    • stitching is strong and even
    • the handle feels comfortable in your hand
    • the leash weight matches your dog’s size

    Collar or harness?

    There is no one-size-fits-all answer.

    A collar and leash is a classic setup that works well for calm dogs who don’t pull and respond reliably to commands.

    If your dog tends to lunge forward, coughs when the leash tightens or has a sensitive neck, a harness is usually the more comfortable option. It distributes pressure across the body instead of the neck.

    How to choose a harness

    A harness should fit snugly without putting pressure on the body. A good design allows free movement and does not rub the skin.

    Types of harnesses

    1. Y-shaped harness

    Straps run across the chest and between the front legs, leaving the shoulders free. This design does not put pressure on the neck and allows natural movement, making it a great choice for active daily walks.

    Key points:

    • proper adjustment is important to avoid rubbing under the legs
    • if too loose, the dog may slip out

    2. Vest-style harness

    A softer, wider design, often used for small dogs. The fabric sits gently against the body and reduces pressure from straps.

    Key points:

    • may feel warmer in hot weather
    • make sure it doesn’t rub or stay damp

    3. No-pull harness

    Features a front clip on the chest to help reduce pulling. It gently redirects the dog when they pull forward, making walks easier with strong or untrained dogs.

    Key points:

    • does not replace proper leash training
    • may shift to the side if not fitted correctly
    • choose a model that does not restrict front leg movement

    How to choose the right size

    It’s best to take measurements and compare them to the brand’s size chart.

    What to measure

    You’ll usually need:

    • chest girth — the widest part of the body, just behind the front legs
    • neck girth — at the base of the neck where the harness sits

    Sometimes it also helps to know your dog’s back length and weight.

    What to do next

    Each brand has its own sizing. You can usually find it on the packaging, product page or label.

    Sizes are often listed as XS, S, M, L, XL or in centimeters.

    Important: a size M in one brand may not match a size M in another, so do not rely on the letter alone.

    If your dog falls between two sizes, it is usually better to choose the larger one — especially if the harness is adjustable.

    For example, if your dog’s chest measures 52 cm and the chart shows:

    • S — 40–50 cm
    • M — 50–60 cm

    Choose M if there is room for adjustment.

    Check the fit after buying

    Once the harness is on, make sure it:

    • does not hang loosely
    • does not dig into the body
    • does not rub under the legs
    • does not restrict movement

    A simple rule: you should be able to fit two fingers between the strap and your dog’s body.

    Common mistakes

    • buying without taking measurements
    • using a leash that is too thin for a large dog or too heavy for a small one
    • choosing a harness that rubs under the legs
    • picking a harness that is too loose and easy to escape from

    The right gear is one that feels comfortable for your dog — and gives you confidence and control during every walk.

  • Dog clothing: how to choose

    Dog clothing: how to choose

    Dog clothing is not necessary for every pet or every situation. For some dogs, it helps make walks more comfortable, while for others it may be unnecessary. The key is to match the clothing to the weather and your dog’s comfort.

    When clothing is actually needed

    Clothing is most useful for:

    • small dogs
    • short-haired breeds
    • dogs without an undercoat
    • senior dogs
    • puppies
    • dogs after a short haircut 
    • rainy, snowy, windy or cold weather

    For example, breeds like Chihuahuas, Italian Greyhounds, Chinese Cresteds, Toy Terriers and Miniature Pinschers often benefit from clothing.

    When you can skip it

    Many dogs with thick coats and dense undercoats (such as Huskies, Malamutes, Samoyeds and Newfoundlands) are comfortable without extra layers in mild weather. That said, even these breeds may benefit from a raincoat or protection from mud.

    How to choose dog clothing

    1. By season

    • rainy fall — a lightweight raincoat or waterproof layer
    • winter — insulated options with wind and water protection
    • spring — lighter protection from damp weather and wind

    2. By fit

    Good clothing should:

    • not rub or irritate
    • not restrict movement
    • stay in place without twisting
    • not put pressure on the neck, chest or underarms
    • allow your dog to go to the bathroom comfortably

    If your dog moves stiffly, freezes or keeps trying to remove the clothing, it’s a sign the fit isn’t right.

    3. By material

    Pay attention to:

    • outer fabric suitable for the weather
    • soft inner lining
    • strong stitching
    • easy-to-use fasteners
    • machine-washable materials

    How to take measurements

    You will usually need three measurements:

    • back length (from the base of the neck to the base of the tail)
    • chest girth (the widest part of the body)
    • neck girth

    Always compare your measurements with the brand’s size chart, as sizing can vary between manufacturers.

    How to get your dog used to clothing

    If your dog has never worn clothes before, take it step by step:

    • let them sniff the item first
    • try it on briefly at home
    • praise and reward
    • gradually increase wearing time

    Common mistakes

    • guessing the size instead of measuring
    • choosing heavy or stiff fabrics
    • overheating the dog
    • leaving clothing wet after walks

    Clothing only helps when it actually makes your dog more comfortable and protects them from the weather. If it fits well, doesn’t restrict movement and matches the season, it’s doing its job.

  • Essential grooming supplies for your dog

    Essential grooming supplies for your dog

    Dog care is not just about feeding and walks. To keep your dog comfortable day to day, it helps to have a basic set of grooming and hygiene essentials at home.

    You don’t need to buy everything at once or go for a full setup right away. It’s better to start with a practical core kit and add more as needed.

    Basic dog grooming checklist

    1. Coat care

    Important: different coat types require different tools.

    For short-haired breeds(such as Labrador Retrievers, Beagles, Pugs, Dobermans):

    • grooming glove
    • fine-tooth comb
    • brush for short coats
    • deshedding tool (for some coat types)

    For medium-haired breeds(such as Huskies or Corgis):

    • grooming glove
    • comb with mixed tooth lengths
    • deshedding tool
    • slicker brush
    • dematting tool (if needed)

    For long-haired breeds(such as Shih Tzus, Collies, Maltese and others), a more complete set is needed:

    • grooming glove
    • wide-tooth comb
    • fine-tooth comb
    • deshedding tool
    • slicker brush
    • dematting tool
    • scissors

    Dogs with wire-haired breeds do not have an undercoat, so deshedding tools and slicker brushes are not used. A suitable brush and a stripping comb are usually enough.

    2. Bathing and hygiene

    • dog shampoo
    • a separate towel
    • wipes or soft cloths for cleaning paws
    • conditioner (if needed)

    Human shampoos are not suitable for dogs.

    3. Paws and nails

    • nail clippers in the right size
    • nail file (optional)
    • paw balm or protective treatment

    Common mistakes

    • buying random products without considering the dog’s size
    • using human products instead of dog-specific ones
    • choosing cheap tools that are uncomfortable to use
    • buying too many items instead of starting with a basic set
    • not replacing consumables on time

    Good care is not about having a lot of tools, but about choosing the right ones. A simple, practical set that fits your dog and is used regularly is more than enough.