Pawademy

Tag: cats

  • A kitten at home: what to buy and how to prepare

    A kitten at home: what to buy and how to prepare

    Bringing a kitten home is exciting, but good preparation makes all the difference. A safe environment and the right essentials will help your new pet settle in quickly, feel secure and adapt more easily to your home routine.

    In this guide, we explain how to prepare for a kitten so your first days together feel calm, comfortable and stress-free.

    Prepare your home in advance

    For a small kitten, even ordinary household items can be risky. The calmer and safer the space feels at the beginning, the easier the adjustment period will be.

    Make your home safe

    • Hide electrical cords and cables your kitten could chew.
    • Keep cleaning products, medicines and small objects out of reach.
    • Check your windows. Use secure screens or safe ventilation locks.
    • Make sure your houseplants are safe for cats, as some are toxic.
    • If you have high surfaces, limit access at first so your kitten cannot climb and fall during play.

    If you have small children

    Explain in advance that a kitten is not a toy, but a living animal that also needs time to adjust to a new home. The first few days are especially important for a calm start.

    It helps to agree on a few simple rules:

    • do not pick up the kitten without an adult
    • do not wake the kitten while it is sleeping
    • do not pull the tail, paws or ears
    • do not shout nearby or scare the kitten
    • always let the kitten walk away or hide
    • use proper toys for play, not hands

    A gentle introduction helps both the child and the kitten become true friends.

    Keep the first days stress-free

    Prepare a quiet corner where your kitten can rest. On day one, avoid too much attention or excitement. Your kitten needs time to explore new smells, observe the space and feel safe.

    There is no need to introduce every room right away. At first, one area with a bed, water, food and a litter box is enough. This helps your kitten adjust to the new environment and daily routine.

    What to buy first

    Here are the essentials to have ready before your kitten arrives:

    1. Food and water bowls

    You will need at least two bowls: one for water and one for food. If you plan to serve both dry and wet food, having a third bowl is helpful.

    Choose sturdy ceramic or stainless steel bowls. They are safe, easy to clean and long-lasting. Fresh water should always be available.

    2. Litter box and litter

    Choose a litter box that suits your kitten’s size. Your pet should be able to step in easily and turn around comfortably. For very young kittens, low-sided boxes are usually best. Place the litter box in a quiet area away from noise and drafts. There are many litter types, and the best option often comes down to trial and observation. If your kitten is already used to a certain litter, it is best not to change it right away.

    3. Food

    The right diet depends on your kitten’s age, breed and your veterinarian’s advice. Young kittens need food specially formulated for growth. Avoid sudden diet changes. If your kitten was eating something different before, switch gradually over several days.

    4. Carrier

    A carrier is useful for much more than vet visits. It keeps your kitten safe during travel and can also become a cozy hiding spot at home. Choose a sturdy carrier with good ventilation and a secure door. Leave it open regularly so your kitten can start seeing it as a familiar and safe place.

    5. Scratching post

    A scratching post helps protect furniture and gives your kitten a natural place to scratch and maintain its claws. Place it near your kitten’s future resting area. To make it more appealing, choose one with a hanging toy or add a little catnip.

    6. Toys

    Toys are essential for healthy development and mental stimulation. Shared playtime also helps build trust between you and your kitten. Choose balls, wand toys and soft safe toys without small detachable parts.

    What you need for kitten care

    Here are a few essentials for regular care and overall health:

    1. Grooming basics

    Useful items may include:

    • a brush or comb
    • nail clippers
    • pet wipes
    • shampoo, if needed

    Do not use products made for humans. They are not suitable for animals’ sensitive skin. At first, a basic set is enough, along with gentle introductions to grooming routines.

    2. Parasite protection

    Even indoor cats need protection from external and internal parasites. Drops and tablets should always be chosen based on age and weight, as unsuitable products may be unsafe.

    3. When to see a vet

    A routine check-up soon after bringing your kitten home is a smart idea. A veterinarian can assess overall health, recommend vaccinations, advise on parasite prevention and answer feeding or care questions. If your kitten loses appetite, becomes lethargic or develops digestive issues, seek veterinary care without delay.

    Common issues in the first weeks

    Every kitten adjusts differently. Temporary challenges are common at first and are usually resolved with patience, calm routines and consistency.

    1. Not eating

    After moving to a new home, a kitten may refuse food because of stress. Give it time, keep the environment calm and make sure fresh water is always available. If appetite does not return within 24 hours or other symptoms appear, contact a veterinarian.

    2. Hiding

    This is a normal response to a new environment. Do not pull your kitten out by force. It will come out when it feels more confident. A calm voice and predictable surroundings will help your kitten settle in faster.

    3. Not using the litter box

    The cause may be stress, an inconvenient location or an unsuitable litter box. Keep the area clean and remove strong smells nearby. You can also try a litter training aid.

    4. Biting and scratching

    Your kitten may bite or scratch while playing, defending itself or burning off energy. Redirect attention to toys and avoid encouraging play with hands. With patience and consistency, this behavior usually improves over time.

    Taking good care of a kitten is not only important for health, but also a wonderful way to build a strong bond during the first stage of your life together. A happy kitten will thank you with gentle purring and affection.

  • How to choose a litter box for your cat

    How to choose a litter box for your cat

    A litter box is one of the essentials for any cat at home. To help your cat build good toilet habits as quickly as possible, the box should always be clean and the right size. In this article, we look at the main types of litter boxes, along with their pros and cons.

    Types of litter boxes for cats

    Some cats are perfectly happy with a simple open tray, while others prefer a more private and enclosed space. The best option for you and your pet is often found through trial and error.

    If you want to switch from one litter box to another, here is the best way to do it:

    1. Place the new litter box next to the old one. Do not remove the old box right away — your cat needs time to get used to the new item.
    2. Use familiar litter. At first, keep the same litter and the same depth your cat already knows.
    3. Let scent help. Add a small amount of used litter from the old box into the new one.
    4. Be patient. Some cats adjust in a day, while others need more time.
    5. Reward success. If your cat uses the new box, praise them with affection or a treat.

    Once your cat starts using the new litter box regularly, the old one can be removed.

    Classic open litter box

    The most common and familiar option is a simple plastic tray with low or medium sides.

    Pros:

    • affordable
    • easy to wash and scoop

    Cons:

    • litter often gets kicked outside the box
    • odors may spread more easily
    • everything is visible

    Despite these downsides, an open litter box is usually the best choice for kittens and senior cats.

    Litter box with grate

    This is an open litter box with a plastic grid placed over the tray. Litter goes underneath the grate or may not be used at all.

    Pros:

    • litter does not stick to paws as much
    • uses less litter, or none at all
    • the cat cannot eat the litter

    Cons:

    • needs frequent cleaning
    • odor appears quickly
    • some cats miss the ability to dig
    • may take time to get used to

    This option can work well for owners who are ready to clean the box several times a day to keep the area tidy. It is worth knowing that grate-style boxes can be harder for some cats to accept.

    Litter box with high sides

    High-sided boxes are ideal for cats that love digging energetically in their litter.

    Pros:

    • much less mess around the box
    • more room for larger cats

    Cons:

    • not ideal for kittens or senior cats, as getting in may be difficult

    A great choice for active adult cats.

    Covered litter box

    Enclosed “house-style” models with a lid and an entrance on the side or front.

    Pros:

    • less odor outside the box
    • litter stays inside more easily
    • more privacy for the cat

    Cons:

    • takes up more space
    • still needs regular cleaning
    • not every cat likes enclosed spaces

    A good option for shy cats and owners who value a tidy home.

    Tip: The ideal height of a covered litter box is the distance from the litter surface to the tip of your cat’s ears while sitting, plus 5 cm (about 2 inches).

    Self-cleaning litter box

    An automatic model that removes waste after use.

    Pros:

    • minimal manual cleaning
    • litter stays cleaner and fresher
    • some models include health tracking and notify owners how often the cat uses the box

    Cons:

    • expensive
    • requires power
    • may scare some cats; poorly designed models can be unsafe

    A convenient option for busy owners or frequent travelers, but not suitable for every cat. If you choose this type, reliable safety sensors are essential.

    Useful accessories

    Items that make litter box care easier:

    • Scoop. Choose one with slots large enough for clean litter to fall through, but small enough to hold clumps.
    • Litter mat. Helps catch litter from your cat’s paws and keeps the floor cleaner. If your cat likes chewing non-food items, this may not be the best choice.
    • Waste bags. Useful for quick and tidy disposal of used litter.
    • Litter storage container. Keeps extra litter nearby and protects it from moisture.

    When choosing a litter box, do not focus on appearance alone. It should fit your cat’s size, feel comfortable and be placed in a calm location. If your cat avoids the box, the problem is usually not personality — it is often that the setup simply does not suit them.

  • How to litter train a kitten

    How to litter train a kitten

    Most kittens learn to use a litter box quickly when the setup is clear and the process isn’t rushed. Your main job is to choose the right box, pick a suitable litter and stay patient.

    Choose the right litter box

    Kittens do best with a litter box that has low sides so they can climb in easily. Place it in a quiet, low-traffic area away from noise and drafts where your kitten can feel safe and have privacy.

    If you live in a large home, it’s a good idea to set up at least two litter boxes in different areas, especially at first.

    Pick the right litter

    To help your kitten learn faster, choose an unscented litter. Good options include wood pellets, corn-based litter and clumping clay litter.

    Silica crystal litter controls odor well, but some kittens may try to chew or swallow it, which can be dangerous.

    Later on, you can test different types to see what your cat prefers.

    Gentle reminders work best

    Place your kitten in the litter box after naps, meals or active playtime. These are the moments when they’re most likely to need the litter box.

    Do not force, hold down or scare your kitten. Calmly showing the right spot several times is usually enough.

    Reinforce the habit

    If your kitten uses the litter box, praise them with affection, a gentle voice or a small treat.

    Accidents happen

    Mistakes during the first few days are a normal part of settling in.

    What to do:

    • clean the area thoroughly to remove odor
    • check whether the litter box location is convenient
    • move the box gradually if a better spot is needed
    • try a different type of litter
    • use a litter training attractant spray
    • remind your kitten more often after naps and meals

    Never rub your kitten’s nose in the mess, yell or punish them.

    Health issues

    If your kitten regularly avoids the litter box, cries when trying to go, has constipation, diarrhea or seems tired and unwell, the cause may be medical rather than behavioral. If you notice any of these signs, contact a trusted veterinarian as soon as possible.

    Can I litter train an adult cat?

    Yes, but it usually takes longer than with a kitten because adult cats may already have habits and past experiences.

    The method is the same: choose a comfortable litter box, place it in a quiet spot and find a litter your cat likes. Stay calm, be consistent and avoid punishment. If the cat used to go outdoors or in another place, full adjustment may take several weeks.

  • Night zoomies: why your cat runs around after dark

    Night zoomies: why your cat runs around after dark

    Just a second ago, your cat was peacefully lying on the couch. Then suddenly — a dramatic launch, a sharp turn, a leap through the hallway and a full-speed sprint across the house. That is the famous zoomies: a sudden burst of energy familiar to almost every cat owner.

    It may look strange, sound chaotic and sometimes feel annoying, but in most cases it is completely normal cat behavior.

    Why cats suddenly start running

    1. Built-up energy

    Cats sleep a lot, but that does not mean they do not need exercise. After a long rest, the body may need to release energy, and that can look like a wild race through the home.

    2. Hunting instincts

    Even if the only prey in the house is slippers and a blanket, your cat’s instincts are still there. Hiding, pouncing and chasing are part of being a little predator.

    3. Natural rhythms

    Many cats are especially active early in the morning and in the evening. That is why nighttime zoomies are a classic part of life with a cat.

    4. After using the litter box

    Some cats do a victory sprint after going to the bathroom. There are several theories about this. One suggests that the feeling of relief may stimulate nerves linked to a pleasant sensation.

    What owners can do

    There is usually no reason to worry if your cat:

    • runs with excitement, not fear
    • relaxes normally afterward
    • eats well
    • plays normally
    • moves freely without signs of pain

    Here are a few ways to help redirect that energy:

    1. Play with your cat

    10–15 minutes of active play during the day and in the evening often reduces nighttime activity.

    2. Add more enrichment

    Tunnels, scratching posts, climbing shelves and toy mice can help your cat burn energy at times other than 3 a.m.

    3. Do not punish the behavior

    Cats do not run out of spite. This is their natural (and not bad) behavior.

    4. Adjust the routine

    Sometimes it helps to schedule active play in the evening, followed by a meal. This matches a natural pattern: hunt, eat, rest.

    When to take a closer look

    If the running comes with fear, aggression, painful meowing, itching, limping or other concerning symptoms, it is a good idea to speak with a veterinarian.

    Nighttime zoomies are not a problem or a personality flaw. Your cat is simply following natural instincts and practicing life as a mighty hunter. Yes, sometimes loudly and while sending things flying – but that is such a cat thing to do!

  • Why your cat eats too fast and what to do

    Why your cat eats too fast and what to do

    If your cat eats too quickly, it is not just a funny or harmless habit. Eating too fast can cause discomfort and may leave your cat feeling hungry all the time. The good news is that in many cases, simple changes to feeding habits can help.

    Why it can be a problem

    Eating too fast may lead to:

    • regurgitation right after meals
    • nausea
    • hiccups
    • gas and stomach discomfort
    • overeating
    • weight gain

    If this happens often, it is worth looking for the cause.

    Why cats eat too fast

    There can be many reasons:

    • Competition around food. If there are several pets in the home, your cat may rush to eat before someone else gets their food.
    • Infrequent meals. If there are long gaps between meals, your cat may become overly eager at feeding time.
    • Stress or anxiety. Moving, noise, new pets or changes at home can affect how a cat behaves around food.
    • Past experiences. Cats adopted from shelters or rescued from the street often keep the habit of eating quickly whenever food is available.
    • It tastes too good. A favorite food, especially wet food, may disappear in seconds.

    What you can do

    The easiest solution is to make it harder for your cat to eat so quickly as before:

    • Use a slow feeder. A slow-feeder bowl or puzzle feeder encourages smaller bites and slower eating.
    • Split meals into smaller portions. Many cats do better with smaller meals more often. You can also place small portions of dry food in different spots around the home.
    • Feed pets separately. Removing competition can reduce the urge to rush.
    • Keep a routine. Regular mealtimes often help reduce anxiety.

    When to see a vet

    If your cat is constantly hungry, losing weight, regurgitates after every meal or suddenly changes behavior, it is best to speak with a veterinarian. Sometimes fast eating can be linked to an underlying health issue.

  • Top 5 essentials for every cat owner

    Top 5 essentials for every cat owner

    Taking good care of a cat involves more than just a litter box, food bowls and toys. There are a few everyday essentials that help support your cat’s health, comfort and overall well-being. Here are five useful items worth having at home.

    1. Brush or grooming comb

    Regular brushing helps remove loose fur, reduce mats and noticeably cut down on shedding around the home. Despite the common myth, grooming is important for all cats with fur, not only long-haired breeds.

    It can also become a great bonding moment that helps build trust between you and your cat.

    2. Nail clippers

    If your cat’s claws do not wear down naturally, they may need occasional trimming. For this, it is best to use nail clippers made specifically for pets, as they are safer and easier to handle than regular scissors.

    Important: Only trim the clear tip of the claw and avoid the sensitive inner part. If your cat gets nervous, it is perfectly fine to split the task into several short sessions.

    3. Parasite protection

    Even indoor cats need protection from fleas, ticks and internal parasites. There are different options available, including spot-on treatments, tablets and pastes. The right product should always be chosen according to your cat’s age and weight.

    4. Wipes, soft pads and cotton swabs

    Useful items for small daily care tasks: wiping the eyes, removing dirt from the coat or gently cleaning the chin and paws after coming home.

    5. Toothbrush and toothpaste for cats

    Dental care is often overlooked. Regular oral hygiene helps reduce the risk of plaque, dental disease and gum problems. Cats should only use toothbrushes and toothpaste designed specifically for pets.

    To complete your basic setup, keep a simple pet first-aid kit at home and save the contact details of a trusted veterinarian.

  • How much water should a cat drink?

    How much water should a cat drink?

    Cats need constant access to water. Proper hydration supports kidney function, urinary health, digestion and overall well-being. If your cat drinks too little or suddenly starts drinking much more than usual, it is important to pay attention.

    How much water is normal?

    On average, an adult cat needs around 40–60 ml of fluid per kilogram of body weight per day:

    • 3 kg cat: 120–180 ml per day
    • 4 kg cat: 160–240 ml per day
    • 5 kg cat: 200–300 ml per day

    Why real-life numbers may vary

    The figures above refer to the total daily fluid intake, not just the water your cat drinks from a bowl.

    Several factors can affect this:

    • Diet. Cats that eat wet food get part of their fluid from meals. Cats on dry food usually drink more from their bowl.
    • Weather and activity. In hot weather, warm indoor temperatures or after active play, cats may drink more than usual.
    • Age. Kittens, senior cats, pregnant cats and nursing cats may have different hydration needs than healthy adult cats.

    How to tell if your cat is drinking too little

    Pay attention if your cat:

    • rarely goes to the water bowl
    • urinates less than usual
    • seems lethargic
    • eats less
    • prefers drinking from the tap but ignores the bowl
    • has dry gums

    How to help your cat drink more

    • Place several water bowls around the home. Many cats drink more when water is available in different rooms.
    • Change the water daily. Fresh water is usually more appealing.
    • Choose the right bowl. Many cats prefer wide bowls where their whiskers do not touch the sides.
    • Try a cat fountain. Moving water often attracts cats more than still water.
    • Add wet food. An easy way to increase total fluid intake.

    What kind of water should you give a cat?

    Cats should only be offered clean, fresh water with no odor or unusual taste. It should be replaced daily. Good-quality filtered or bottled water is often the best option.

    When to see a veterinarian

    If your cat drinks far too little or too much, urinates frequently, loses weight or seems lethargic, do not delay seeking veterinary advice.

    Pay attention not only to the water bowl, but to your cat’s overall behavior as well. A steady interest in drinking is an important sign of good health.

  • How to help a kitten you found outside

    How to help a kitten you found outside

    Found a kitten outside and decided to bring it home? The first few hours can feel overwhelming. How do you get the kitten home safely, what should you feed it, where should it stay and what comes next? Here is a simple guide to help you through the first days together.

    Make sure the kitten really needs help

    A kitten alone does not always mean an abandoned kitten. The mother cat may be nearby. One important note: very young kittens that are still blind need a nursing mother or bottle-feeding with kitten formula on a strict schedule. That is a separate topic. This guide is for kittens that can already eat on their own — usually from around three weeks old, ideally four weeks or older.

    If the kitten is near a road, looks weak, dirty, underweight or seems to have been alone for a long time, it is best to step in quickly.

    Bring the kitten home safely

    Use a pet carrier, a box with air holes or a container lined with a soft towel or blanket. The kitten should not be able to jump out and should feel secure during the trip.

    Do not carry the kitten in your hands in the car or outside. If possible, use a towel, blanket, gloves or a carrier first, and avoid unnecessary hand contact until the first veterinary check-up.

    First steps at home

    1. A quiet space of their own

    Set up a small calm area: a separate room, a quiet corner or a large crate/playpen. During the first few days, many kittens adjust more easily in a smaller safe space than in the whole home right away.

    2. Warmth and rest

    Even an older kitten may arrive scared and cold after life outside. Give them a chance to hide, warm up and catch their breath.

    3. Water and food

    Provide fresh water and offer age-appropriate kitten food. Start with small portions. There is no need to give too much food at once out of pity.

    Add a litter box

    Place an easy-to-access litter box near the resting area, but not right next to the food and water bowls.

    You may also like our guide A kitten at home: what to buy and how to prepare, where we cover the essentials for a smooth start.

    What to do in the next few days

    1. Book a vet visit

    A veterinary check-up should be one of your first priorities. The kitten should be assessed for overall condition, eyes, skin, abdomen, parasites, approximate age and general health.

    2. Start parasite treatment

    Any treatment should be chosen based on the kitten’s age and weight.

    3. Plan vaccinations

    Your veterinarian will tell you when it is the right time to begin vaccinations.

    Keep pets separated at first

    If you already have a cat or dog, do not introduce them immediately. Keep the new kitten in a separate room for the first two weeks.

    Help the kitten settle in

    • keep noise to a minimum
    • do not force contact
    • allow time to explore and feel safe
    • play gently and in short sessions
    • keep a calm daily routine
    • speak in a soft voice

    Some kittens climb into your arms right away. Others need a few days.

    Essentials to buy first

    • food and water bowls
    • kitten food
    • litter box and litter
    • a bed or blanket
    • a toy
    • a carrier

    If you decided to take a found kitten home, the most important things in the first days are safety, calm surroundings, basic care and a veterinary check-up. Do not worry if everything is not perfect right away. For a kitten like this, even simple care, safety and a peaceful home can already change life for the better.

  • How to walk a cat safely

    How to walk a cat safely

    Walks are not right for every cat, but for some pets they can be a great way to explore, stay active and enjoy new experiences. The key is not to take your cat outside on impulse.

    Do all cats need walks?

    No. Many indoor cats live perfectly happy lives with playtime, scratching posts, climbing shelves and attention from their owners. Walks are not an essential part of cat care — they are simply an extra option.

    They are usually best suited to curious and confident cats.

    Walks are not recommended for:

    • kittens under six months old
    • unvaccinated cats
    • cats recovering from illness or surgery
    • highly anxious cats
    • senior cats that clearly feel uncomfortable outdoors

    Why free roaming is risky

    We strongly advise against letting an indoor cat roam outside alone without supervision. Free roaming comes with a high risk of injury, poisoning, fights with other animals, infections, traffic accidents and getting lost. Even a quiet yard cannot guarantee safety.

    If your cat is interested in going outside, the safer option is a supervised walk with a harness.

    What to do before the first walk

    1. Vaccinations and parasite prevention

    Before going outside, your cat should be up to date on core vaccinations. Regular protection against fleas, ticks and other parasites is also important.

    Even a short walk means contact with the outside environment, so prevention matters.

    2. Choose the right harness

    For walks, use a harness rather than a collar. A harness distributes pressure more safely and reduces the risk of injury.

    It should fit snugly without being too tight.

    3. Practice at home first

    Let your cat get used to the harness indoors first. Allow time to sniff it, inspect it and wear it for a few minutes at a time.

    Once your cat is comfortable, gradually introduce the leash.

    Pick quiet places

    Choose calm areas without dogs, cars or crowds. A quiet courtyard, enclosed space or peaceful park with trees can work well.

    When not to go outside

    Skip walks in these situations:

    • bad weather: cold, heat, rain or strong wind
    • noisy times or crowded places
    • if your cat feels nervous or unwell

    Cold weather can be especially risky for short-haired cats, kittens and cats without a thick undercoat.

    What a walk looks like

    You will not walk a cat the same way you walk a dog. Cats prefer to set their own pace. They stop, sniff, observe and decide where to go next.

    Your role is to follow along and keep them safe.

    Depending on your cat’s mood, a walk may last five minutes or thirty. Both are completely normal.

    Important things to remember

    • do not pull the leash to force your cat in another direction
    • do not approach unfamiliar animals
    • do not remove the harness outdoors
    • watch your cat’s mood and physical condition carefully

    When it may be better to wait

    It is best to pause outdoor walks if your cat becomes very frightened, hides, stays stressed or needs a long time to recover afterward. In that case, home life is clearly the better option.

    You can walk a cat, but only if your cat genuinely enjoys it. The best walk is one that leaves your pet calm, comfortable and content afterward.

  • How to choose the right bowls for your cat

    How to choose the right bowls for your cat

    A bowl may seem like a simple purchase, but it can affect your cat’s daily comfort and sometimes even their willingness to eat or drink. In this guide, we look at what kind of bowls your whiskered companion really needs.

    How many bowls does a cat need?

    At minimum, two:

    • one for water
    • one for food

    If your cat eats both wet and dry food, it is best to have separate bowls for each type.

    What kind of bowl is best for a cat?

    • Ceramic. Heavy, stable, easy to clean and resistant to odors. One of the best choices for everyday use at home.
    • Stainless steel. Durable, hygienic and long-lasting. A great option for daily use.
    • Plastic. The lightest and most affordable option, but plastic bowls can scratch easily, absorb odors and wear out faster. Poor-quality plastic may even release unwanted substances into food or water.

    How to choose the right size

    The bowl should suit your cat’s size and feel comfortable to use every day. One that is too small will empty quickly, while one that is too large may take up unnecessary space.

    For most cats, medium-sized bowls work well and hold a single portion without overflowing. For water, a larger bowl is often more practical so fresh water stays available throughout the day.

    The most important rule is simple: your cat should be able to eat and drink comfortably without pressing their face against the sides or brushing their whiskers against the rim.

    How to care for your cat’s bowls

    • wash bowls daily
    • change the water every day
    • do not leave wet food sitting out for hours
    • check regularly for chips or damage and replace bowls when needed

    Where to place the bowls

    Choose a calm spot away from noise and busy walkways. It is often a good idea to place the water bowl separately from the food, as many cats prefer to drink this way. Food and water should also not be placed next to the litter box.