Pawademy

Category: Pet Lifestyle

  • Night zoomies: why your cat runs around after dark

    Night zoomies: why your cat runs around after dark

    Just a second ago, your cat was peacefully lying on the couch. Then suddenly — a dramatic launch, a sharp turn, a leap through the hallway and a full-speed sprint across the house. That is the famous zoomies: a sudden burst of energy familiar to almost every cat owner.

    It may look strange, sound chaotic and sometimes feel annoying, but in most cases it is completely normal cat behavior.

    Why cats suddenly start running

    1. Built-up energy

    Cats sleep a lot, but that does not mean they do not need exercise. After a long rest, the body may need to release energy, and that can look like a wild race through the home.

    2. Hunting instincts

    Even if the only prey in the house is slippers and a blanket, your cat’s instincts are still there. Hiding, pouncing and chasing are part of being a little predator.

    3. Natural rhythms

    Many cats are especially active early in the morning and in the evening. That is why nighttime zoomies are a classic part of life with a cat.

    4. After using the litter box

    Some cats do a victory sprint after going to the bathroom. There are several theories about this. One suggests that the feeling of relief may stimulate nerves linked to a pleasant sensation.

    What owners can do

    There is usually no reason to worry if your cat:

    • runs with excitement, not fear
    • relaxes normally afterward
    • eats well
    • plays normally
    • moves freely without signs of pain

    Here are a few ways to help redirect that energy:

    1. Play with your cat

    10–15 minutes of active play during the day and in the evening often reduces nighttime activity.

    2. Add more enrichment

    Tunnels, scratching posts, climbing shelves and toy mice can help your cat burn energy at times other than 3 a.m.

    3. Do not punish the behavior

    Cats do not run out of spite. This is their natural (and not bad) behavior.

    4. Adjust the routine

    Sometimes it helps to schedule active play in the evening, followed by a meal. This matches a natural pattern: hunt, eat, rest.

    When to take a closer look

    If the running comes with fear, aggression, painful meowing, itching, limping or other concerning symptoms, it is a good idea to speak with a veterinarian.

    Nighttime zoomies are not a problem or a personality flaw. Your cat is simply following natural instincts and practicing life as a mighty hunter. Yes, sometimes loudly and while sending things flying – but that is such a cat thing to do!

  • How to help a kitten you found outside

    How to help a kitten you found outside

    Found a kitten outside and decided to bring it home? The first few hours can feel overwhelming. How do you get the kitten home safely, what should you feed it, where should it stay and what comes next? Here is a simple guide to help you through the first days together.

    Make sure the kitten really needs help

    A kitten alone does not always mean an abandoned kitten. The mother cat may be nearby. One important note: very young kittens that are still blind need a nursing mother or bottle-feeding with kitten formula on a strict schedule. That is a separate topic. This guide is for kittens that can already eat on their own — usually from around three weeks old, ideally four weeks or older.

    If the kitten is near a road, looks weak, dirty, underweight or seems to have been alone for a long time, it is best to step in quickly.

    Bring the kitten home safely

    Use a pet carrier, a box with air holes or a container lined with a soft towel or blanket. The kitten should not be able to jump out and should feel secure during the trip.

    Do not carry the kitten in your hands in the car or outside. If possible, use a towel, blanket, gloves or a carrier first, and avoid unnecessary hand contact until the first veterinary check-up.

    First steps at home

    1. A quiet space of their own

    Set up a small calm area: a separate room, a quiet corner or a large crate/playpen. During the first few days, many kittens adjust more easily in a smaller safe space than in the whole home right away.

    2. Warmth and rest

    Even an older kitten may arrive scared and cold after life outside. Give them a chance to hide, warm up and catch their breath.

    3. Water and food

    Provide fresh water and offer age-appropriate kitten food. Start with small portions. There is no need to give too much food at once out of pity.

    Add a litter box

    Place an easy-to-access litter box near the resting area, but not right next to the food and water bowls.

    You may also like our guide A kitten at home: what to buy and how to prepare, where we cover the essentials for a smooth start.

    What to do in the next few days

    1. Book a vet visit

    A veterinary check-up should be one of your first priorities. The kitten should be assessed for overall condition, eyes, skin, abdomen, parasites, approximate age and general health.

    2. Start parasite treatment

    Any treatment should be chosen based on the kitten’s age and weight.

    3. Plan vaccinations

    Your veterinarian will tell you when it is the right time to begin vaccinations.

    Keep pets separated at first

    If you already have a cat or dog, do not introduce them immediately. Keep the new kitten in a separate room for the first two weeks.

    Help the kitten settle in

    • keep noise to a minimum
    • do not force contact
    • allow time to explore and feel safe
    • play gently and in short sessions
    • keep a calm daily routine
    • speak in a soft voice

    Some kittens climb into your arms right away. Others need a few days.

    Essentials to buy first

    • food and water bowls
    • kitten food
    • litter box and litter
    • a bed or blanket
    • a toy
    • a carrier

    If you decided to take a found kitten home, the most important things in the first days are safety, calm surroundings, basic care and a veterinary check-up. Do not worry if everything is not perfect right away. For a kitten like this, even simple care, safety and a peaceful home can already change life for the better.

  • How to walk a cat safely

    How to walk a cat safely

    Walks are not right for every cat, but for some pets they can be a great way to explore, stay active and enjoy new experiences. The key is not to take your cat outside on impulse.

    Do all cats need walks?

    No. Many indoor cats live perfectly happy lives with playtime, scratching posts, climbing shelves and attention from their owners. Walks are not an essential part of cat care — they are simply an extra option.

    They are usually best suited to curious and confident cats.

    Walks are not recommended for:

    • kittens under six months old
    • unvaccinated cats
    • cats recovering from illness or surgery
    • highly anxious cats
    • senior cats that clearly feel uncomfortable outdoors

    Why free roaming is risky

    We strongly advise against letting an indoor cat roam outside alone without supervision. Free roaming comes with a high risk of injury, poisoning, fights with other animals, infections, traffic accidents and getting lost. Even a quiet yard cannot guarantee safety.

    If your cat is interested in going outside, the safer option is a supervised walk with a harness.

    What to do before the first walk

    1. Vaccinations and parasite prevention

    Before going outside, your cat should be up to date on core vaccinations. Regular protection against fleas, ticks and other parasites is also important.

    Even a short walk means contact with the outside environment, so prevention matters.

    2. Choose the right harness

    For walks, use a harness rather than a collar. A harness distributes pressure more safely and reduces the risk of injury.

    It should fit snugly without being too tight.

    3. Practice at home first

    Let your cat get used to the harness indoors first. Allow time to sniff it, inspect it and wear it for a few minutes at a time.

    Once your cat is comfortable, gradually introduce the leash.

    Pick quiet places

    Choose calm areas without dogs, cars or crowds. A quiet courtyard, enclosed space or peaceful park with trees can work well.

    When not to go outside

    Skip walks in these situations:

    • bad weather: cold, heat, rain or strong wind
    • noisy times or crowded places
    • if your cat feels nervous or unwell

    Cold weather can be especially risky for short-haired cats, kittens and cats without a thick undercoat.

    What a walk looks like

    You will not walk a cat the same way you walk a dog. Cats prefer to set their own pace. They stop, sniff, observe and decide where to go next.

    Your role is to follow along and keep them safe.

    Depending on your cat’s mood, a walk may last five minutes or thirty. Both are completely normal.

    Important things to remember

    • do not pull the leash to force your cat in another direction
    • do not approach unfamiliar animals
    • do not remove the harness outdoors
    • watch your cat’s mood and physical condition carefully

    When it may be better to wait

    It is best to pause outdoor walks if your cat becomes very frightened, hides, stays stressed or needs a long time to recover afterward. In that case, home life is clearly the better option.

    You can walk a cat, but only if your cat genuinely enjoys it. The best walk is one that leaves your pet calm, comfortable and content afterward.

  • Why your dog chews everything — and what to do about it

    Why your dog chews everything — and what to do about it

    Chewing is completely natural for dogs. It’s how they explore the world, relieve tension, keep themselves busy and even cope with teething. In many cases, the issue isn’t “bad behavior” — it’s a lack of safe, interesting things to chew.

    Why dogs chew things

    There isn’t just one reason. Here are the most common ones:

    1. Teething

    During teething, gums can feel sore and itchy. The urge to chew increases.

    What helps:

    • safe chew toys
    • teething toys designed for puppies

    Tip: rotate toys regularly to keep your dog interested.

    2. Boredom and lack of stimulation

    If a dog has nothing to do, they will find their own entertainment — furniture, shoes, remotes or boxes.

    Ask yourself honestly:

    • Is my dog getting enough walks?
    • Do we have regular playtime or training?

    If the answer is no, it’s time to add more variety to your dog’s day.

    3. Stress or anxiety

    Dogs often chew to cope with stress — for example, when left alone, during a move, with loud noises or changes in routine.

    What matters here:

    • identify the source of stress
    • create a stable, predictable routine
    • seek professional help if anxiety is significant

    How to fix the problem

    1. Remove temptation

    This is the fastest way to reduce damage.

    2. Offer a better option

    Your dog needs something they are allowed to chew.

    3. Reward the right choice

    If your dog picks their own toy, praise them, offer a treat or start a short play session.

    4. Increase physical activity

    After a proper walk, training session or active play, the urge to chew on random items usually drops.

    5. Do not punish after the fact

    If you find something damaged later, punishment will not help.

    When you may need extra help

    Consider professional support if your dog:

    • chews constantly and obsessively
    • injures their teeth or gums
    • eats non-food items
    • destroys things in panic when left alone

    In these cases, it’s best to consult a veterinarian or a qualified behavior specialist.

    Chewing is not your dog “getting back at you.” It’s a sign of a need that isn’t being met. Once you understand the reason and offer a better outlet, the behavior usually becomes much less of a problem.